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Displays

144 bytes removed, 19:28, 16 March 2020
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**May actually force and scale to a resolution non-native to the input. HDTVs that scale EVERYTHING to 1080i aren't rare. That defeats the purpose of avoiding scaling (no input lag, native resolution, etc.), but you still get the other benefits (minus the "no input delay").
*No [https[wikipedia://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Input_lag |input delay]]
*Very fast [https[wikipedia://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Response_time_%28technology%29 |response times]]. Often referred to as phosphor delay.
*True black levels
====Recommended CRT TV Models====
Sony's PVM/BVM series and NEC's XM/XP series are considered god-tier. If you cannot find those specific models, look for presentation monitors, professional monitors, or broadcast monitors from any brand. If you search for "video monitor" on craigslist, you may have luck finding one. Sony [https[wikipedia://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trinitron |Trinitrons]] are pretty easy to find, and they're on the high-end of consumer-grade CRTs. Sharp, Toshiba, and Phillips higher-end CRTs are pretty close in quality, so don't be afraid to pick one of those up. Test before you buy. Also, check the back and see what ports it has. If you're in North America, coax and composite (red white yellow) are the most common, but you'll get the best picture quality running your system through component (green blue red red white) ports. If a component is not available, look for [https[wikipedia://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S-video |S-video]] instead. It will look slightly worse than component, but since it is on a CRT, the picture still looks good.
If you are in a PAL region or Japan, look for a TV with RGB SCART or RGB JP-21 (same connector, but different signals). Note that just because a CRT has a SCART/JP-21 port, it doesn't mean that it supports RGB. It could just be composite through a different connector. If you are in Japan, you can also look for D-Terminal on the back, which uses YPbPr instead of RGB (similar to the component cable in other NTSC regions). Just make sure to avoid "100Hz," widescreen (note: some European widescreen CRTs still can display native 15KHz, in which case, it is a good one to pick up), "high dot pitch," or "HD CRTs," as they tend to scale or distort the image in some way like modern HDTVs, with a few exceptions. This also applies to NTSC regions (minus "100Hz"). This does not apply to video monitors, as mentioned in the paragraph above.
====TN panels====
*Fast [https[wikipedia://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Response_time_%28technology%29 |response times]]
*Cheap prices
**Though IPS glow will be far more visible and troublesome the farther you get from straight on
*Fairly long [https[wikipedia://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Response_time_%28technology%29 |response times]] (will differ between panels)
**This causes motion blur, ghosting, and delay.
*Some monitors can be 'overclocked' to run at higher refresh rates. Such as the [http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/qnix_qx2710.htm Qnix QX2710], which can run at 120Hz
**But most cannot resolve every frame of such refresh rates due to [https[wikipedia://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Response_time_%28technology%29 |response times]]
*IPS glow. A form of backlight bleed that varies with viewing angle. Affects dark areas. Generally makes IPS panels have terrible black levels.
**Some panels may have an issue called 'black crush' which darkens the panel when viewed straightforward.
*Generally mid-range [https[wikipedia://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Response_time_%28technology%29 |response times]] (will differ between panels).
*At least one officially supported, out of the box, 120Hz panel, the [http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/eizo_fg2421.htm Eizo Foris FG2412]. No 'overclocking' necessary.
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