Editing CRT shaders

Jump to navigation Jump to search

Warning: You are not logged in. Your IP address will be publicly visible if you make any edits. If you log in or create an account, your edits will be attributed to your username, along with other benefits.

The edit can be undone. Please check the comparison below to verify that this is what you want to do, and then save the changes below to finish undoing the edit.
Latest revision Your text
Line 1: Line 1:
 
[[File:Retroarch_2013-07-22_17-21-17-60.png|thumb|298px|CRT-Geom-Flat, with default settings]]
 
[[File:Retroarch_2013-07-22_17-21-17-60.png|thumb|298px|CRT-Geom-Flat, with default settings]]
CRT shaders are one of the most popular categories of shaders. While there had been many attempts to include some kind of CRT-esque filters in older emulators - usually involving little more than overlaying dark gray or black lines, colloquially referred to as scanlines, over the image - modern CRT shaders are much more complex and configurable.
+
Many of these replicate aperture grille CRTs, which have sharp images and strong scanlines. If you find that this doesn't look a damn thing like your old TV, it's probably because you owned a shadow-mask (Slot mask or dot mask) style CRT, which has less noticeable scan lines. The easiest way to tell the difference is to feel the curve of the screen; aperture grilles only curve horizontally if at all, or look at the left and right sides of the glass against the frame. If those sides are curved, it's a shadow mask. If they're straight, it's an aperture grille. Old TVs usually had slot masks, whereas monitors usually had dot masks. Unfortunately, shadow masks require resolutions of upwards of 4K UHD to emulate accurately with no downsampling of the phosphor grid, so all we have for the time being are aperture grille shaders for current display resolutions.
  
Many of these replicate aperture grille CRTs (exemplified primarily by Sony TVs and monitors, though other manufacturers released their own versions of the technology later on), which have sharp images and strong scanlines. If you find that these shaders don't look a damn thing like your old TV, it's probably because you owned a slot mask-style CRT, which typically had less noticeable scanlines, or simply had a smaller set, which tended to be less sharp. The easiest way to tell the difference is to feel the curve of the screen; aperture grilles only curve horizontally if at all. Alternatively, look at the left and right sides of the glass against the frame - if the sides are curved, it's a slot mask; if they're straight, it's an aperture grille. Old TVs usually had slot masks, whereas monitors usually had shadow masks. While slot masks and shadow masks can be emulated to a certain degree even at 1080p, much higher resolutions like 4K or higher are better suited to the task. Aperture grilles are much easier to emulate, and can be satisfactorily replicated at 1080p, though it goes without saying even better results can be achieved with higher resolution.
+
Use integer scaling. This means either using windowed mode (x2,x3,x4) or setting an integer scaling option in the video options. The reason is that non-integer scaled scanlines will result in uneven lines with artifacts, though some shaders use oversampling to try to avoid this.
 
 
It is advisable to use integer scaling when using CRT shaders. This means either using windowed mode (x2,x3,x4) or setting an integer scaling option in the video options. The reason is that non-integer scaled scanlines will result in uneven lines with artifacts, though some shaders use oversampling to try to avoid this. If the resulting letterboxing annoys you and you still want to fill up as much of your screen's real estate as possible, you can also try integer scale overscaling, which scales the image up by another integer to fill the vertical image space while still preserving integer scaling, at the expense of some of the image on the top and bottom being cut off. As an example, at 1080p, turning on overscaling would scale a typical SNES game running at 256x224 to 5x scale i.e. 1280x1120, cutting off twenty pixels from both the top and bottom of the image to reach 1080p. Before you fret, know that at 1080p and 4K the loss from overscaling is usually negligible and well within the area that would've been expected to be cut off on a real CRT anyway due to overscan, and developers almost always took this into account and made sure not to put any crucial game information there, so on many if not most older games, overscaling is completely safe.
 
  
 
==Download==
 
==Download==

Please note that all contributions to Emulation General Wiki may be edited, altered, or removed by other contributors. If you do not want your writing to be edited mercilessly, then do not submit it here.
You are also promising us that you wrote this yourself, or copied it from a public domain or similar free resource (see Emulation General Wiki:Copyrights for details). Do not submit copyrighted work without permission!

To edit this page, please answer the question that appears below (more info):

Cancel Editing help (opens in new window)

Templates used on this page: